A Somewhat Informed Guide To (Second-Hand) Style
I'm not that into fashion. I can appreciate it as an art form, sure, but overall I think of the fashion world as a flawed space, something that exists for egos, flipping from trend to trend and working to create garments for only the thinnest and richest people on earth. That's not my bag, baby.
But personal style, and clothes, simply great clooooothes? Oh, that's what I love. Getting dressed has been a task I've enjoyed since childhood, and I still try to keep that kid-like excitement and creativity in the back of my mind when choosing my outfit for the day. Finding an incredible vintage dress or perfect-fitting blazer for a great price is a habit-forming high that I will preach about to anyone who will listen. In my opinion, building a wardrobe should be fun, not an exhausting journey full of rules and frustration.
That's why I'm writing this very loose guide to personal style. Because that's what it is: personal. These are simply tips I've put together to make shopping and getting dressed a more enjoyable experience. You might not agree with anything I write here, and that's fine. Everyone's approach is going to be different. But if you can read this and come away with at least one crumb of inspiration, then I've done my job. So let's get started.
When It Comes To Jewels, The More The Merrier
That whole Coco Chanel thing about taking one thing off before you leave the house? It's gonna be a no from me, dawg. I say, "more is more!" Give me stacks of rings, big earrings, layered necklaces, jingling chain belts. I'm a magpie. I go cuckoo for anything shiny and bright, which means it's rare for me to leave a thrift store without at least one brooch or pair of earrings. Some might say that my costume jewellery collection is starting to get a little out of hand, and to those people I say: shut up!
Some favourite earrings on an organiser from Dollarama (!)
You can take the most classic, simple garments and use the right accessories to create a one-of-a-kind look that separates you from the minimalistic masses. Don't get me wrong: I can appreciate the beauty of a little black dress or a white tee and jeans, but they're just so much more fun with weird earrings or a tangle of chains hanging from your neck. In fact, I think that balance between simple garments and unique accessories is what makes the combination so special.
My own jewellery collection is a combination of costume pieces I’ve thrifted, family heirlooms, trendier pieces from places like Winners and Marshalls, and special gifts I’ve bought myself from my beloved Catbird.
Tell Fast Fashion To F*ck Off
I'm really trying to make an effort to leave my fast fashion addiction in the past. And I understand, it's hard, especially when you're on a budget and only have so much money to spend. But accumulating a mass of subpar, trendy clothes made by underpaid workers started to make me feel like I was drowning in my belongings and bad decisions.
I love: shoulder pads on a thrifted dress & a vintage Gucci bag I paid $5 for.
I'm at the point now where roughly 3/4 of my wardrobe is second-hand pieces, either vintage that I've thrifted myself or clothing I've been given from friends. I make almost weekly shopping trips to thrift and vintage stores, and try to seasonally donate any clothing I'm not in love with anymore. If something is still cute but no longer fits me, I'll offer it up to my pals or post it on Depop to keep the looks coming for others.
Shopping, like pretty much everything we do, is a political act, and where you choose to spend your money matters. If you don't agree with a company's policies and practices, stop giving them your hard-earned money. Make small changes in how and where you shop, and you'll start to feel better about the state of your wardrobe.
What To Look For When Thrifting
I know some people might be turned off by the idea of secondhand stores, and to those people I say: get over yourself! Yes, a lot of thrift stores can be overwhelming. They're filled with a ton of STUFF, and you've gotta take a considerable amount of time to sift through it in order to strike gold. But if you've got the patience and a mission in mind, you'll walk out with scores so stylish people will constantly stop to ask you, "Oh my gosh, wheeeeere did you get that?" And let me tell you, there's no time I feel more powerful than when I watch someone's face fall as I let them know: "it's vintage!"
A lot of thrift stores are full of fast fashion cast-offs that people decided they don't want anymore, but that is not what I'm after. I want well-made pieces in natural fabrics, and most of what I end up buying was made in the '90s or earlier. On my thrift store trips, I grab a cart and then immediately check out the jewellery, handbags, scarves, sunglasses and shoes first. I always find at least 3-5 cute items in these sections, and even if I'm 50/50 on something, I still keep it in my cart for safekeeping while I mull over my options.
Then I check out blazers. Hello, my name is Hannah, and I'm a blazer addict. I have a bit of a problem, and that's fine, because my wardrobe can only benefit from more light jacket options. With blazers, I look for garments that are either 100% wool, linen or silk, lined, come with pockets, have sleeves that are easy to roll up to the elbows, and have a hem that hit around my hips because smaller jackets look ridiculous on me. This is just the look I like, but I personally feel like it's a timeless silhouette that looks good thrown over just about anything. When I wear a well-made jacket, I carry myself differently. I feel like a successful, functioning adult. And I can keep snacks in the pockets!
That thrifted linen blazer cost me about ten dollars.
Another section I love is the formal wear section. This is where most stores put all the best cocktail dresses. If you're after a fun little mini dress that will make you feel like Christy Turlington circa 1994, the thrift store has your back. This is where I'll occasionally ignore my natural fabrics rule, because most cute cocktail dresses are made from sparkly, slinky synthetics. Put whatever strikes your fancy in your cart and make cuts after trying everything on.
My other favourite clothing rack to sift through is long-sleeved blouses, because I have an addiction to well-loved button-downs of the '80s and '90s. I have a pretty impressive collection of slightly oversized striped and solid Ralph Lauren and L.L. Bean shirts from days of yore, and they're just so comfortable and chic, left somewhat open for a peek of fancy bra, sleeves rolled up in that "whatever, I'm a preppy asshole," kinda way. I'll never stop buying these shirts, and I will never pay more than $10 for one.
Listen, I could write 3,000 more words on what to look for at the thrift store, but I'll spare you and reduce the rest down to a few bullet points:
If something's severely stained or ripped on a non-seam, just leave it. You don't need it and you'll probably never get around to fixing it.
If something's super cute but has weird buttons or is a tad too long, buy it! Those are super easy fixes and worth it if you're really smitten with an item.
Try everything on. If you're even mildly unimpressed with the look of something, just leave it. We waste so much time trying to convince ourselves we like things we actually don't. This goes for people, too.
Keep an eye out for great pieces that may not be in your size. You can sell them on Depop for a profit, or give them to your friends who will love you endlessly for being so generous.
Now look at you go, magical thrifter!
